Step 1. Go to the Mockfolio

a) Be logged into your Google Account.

b) Go here.

Step 2. Duplicate Site

a) Click the three dots beside the "Publish" button.
b) Click "Duplicate site".

Step 3. Save the Duplicate to your Google Drive

a) Name the site whatever you'd like.

b) Choose where it will end up in your Google Drive.
c) DO NOT CLICK "Share with the same editors." This means I will gain access to your duplicated version. I don't need that.

If you click (c), you can fix it by clicking the +Person icon and changing your site's permissions after the fact. It's just easier to avoid problems now - you don't know who's lurking on the internet.

Every time you make a new page, it's blank on Google Sites. Make standardized layouts. You don't want to recreate similar elements from scratch every time you make a similar page. While you can copy an entire section of text and image, it gets exhausting moving back and forth.

I standardize the layouts with these pairs:

• Together: contact /cv/about/bio

• Solo: landing pages for getting to artworks

• Solo: zoom in/out

• Solo: landing page for artworks

Together means the layout is the same from page to page.
Solo means it has its distinct layout.

Back buttons are an easy way to make sure users don't get stuck on pages without an exit. This is why every header in this guide has a "back to the top of the page" link.

When you design a site, you have to assume that users will find every possible way to get lost or stuck - any bugs will be discovered. So while browsers do have back buttons, I wouldn't bet on all people using them to navigate around your site.

You have to try to resolve as many bugs as possible to minimize problems with site navigation. People are impatient, so if they don't know how to get back to where they last left off, they might just leave the site.

Every single Zoom In/Out Page MUST have a back button to the previous page.

This section will be my personal "do's & don'ts" concerning documentation.

These things make a good documentation practice:

1. Find a reliable camera to use.
2. Item is well lit.
3. Glare on the surface is not present or minimized.
4. Object is straight, evenly in the center of the frame. Little / no white space surrounding.
5. Take one overall photo and 1-3 detail shots. Take multiple photos to get a good shot.

1. PICKING A CAMERA

The standard camera used for professional shooting is any DSLR Camera (Digital Single Lens Reflex). Unfortunately, they aren't cheap and usually cost around $500+ with a lens. But, use whatever camera you have access to (more on that later).

Places to find a DSLR:

• Rent from a local library, artist-run center, media center, community center.

• Borrow from your high school or university.

• Buy used online

• Friends / Family

• Stores

• Buy and own an SD card. Then, buy the camera on a site like Amazon with a generous return policy. Use it, don't damage it, then return it before the return policy expires. Double-check the policy to make sure you follow the rules.

DSLRs are commonly used because they take high-quality photos and can adjust the following to adapt to most lighting conditions.

• ISO - for lighting conditions: the 'grain' of the image

• Shutter Speed - for speed: how long light hits the sensor for

• Aperture - for depth of field: how big the hole the light comes through is

I won't dig too deep - you can watch this guide to learn more about it. A good DSLR photo won't require much editing in the post. On smartphones, some will let you change these settings, but most won't. Additionally, a cellphone's megapixel count won't compare to a proper DSLR's.

2. SHOOT IN-CAMERA RAW IF YOU CAN

Camera Raw is a file format available with DSLR cameras. It does not compress image data and, as such, retains more colour and value information than a JPEG file. JPEGs are lossy, losing data. A heavily over or under-exposed photo can be worked with and 'saved' in a RAW format, but never in a JPEG because there aren't enough tonal values saved in JPEG.

I shoot in the RAW + JPEG format because my computer doesn't have image previews of RAW files. I use the JPEGs to surf my images and the RAW files to edit the best possible version of my artwork.

It is more complicated to learn but will immensely help you in post if something goes wrong in the shooting process.

3. LIGHTING

Not all light is equal. While some poor lighting conditions can be fixed in post, it is always best to adjust your camera settings at the start to match the light. You can adjust ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture - don't forget to adjust the Light Balance on your DSLR to the lighting conditions.

If you don't have access to a DSLR or good tools with settings adjustments...

With minimal equipment, to achieve good photos:

• Do not shoot photos indoors under a dim or single household light bulb,

• Avoid shadows by having multiple light sources from the left, right and top,

• Do shoot photos in indirect sunlight (bright cloudy) if possible (inside or outside).

• Do shoot photos in a well-lit room with multiple lights if you can't be outside.

• If you must be inside, use the brightest white light bulbs possible.

The sun is just far brighter than anything your regular household lights can provide and will best show the true colours of your work. Think about the time you took a selfie inside vs. outside - you can see the grain of the photo inside much more than the outdoor one.

Regardless of your ability to use a DSLR camera, it would help if you understood the principles of using one. In my experience, understanding ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture helped me take better photos overall. If my phone's camera settings were fixed/I knew their limitations, I knew I needed to make physical, real-world adjustments to improve the lighting conditions. There was no hope of my camera being better or fixing it in post.

4. TAKE MULTIPLE SHOTS

As explained in the video at the top of this section, take multiple photos of your art & include 1-3 detailed shots of the artwork, especially if the texture is an important element to your work. Detail shots can be more 'artistic' in nature rather than pure documentation. In addition, detailed shots are great for promotional photos on business cards, cover photos, or other shareable media.

For example, Two Brothers is a collaged monoprint lithograph. It took a lot of editing from the original photo to get the blacks to look remotely like their real-life counterpart. In full view, I am unable to capture the textural qualities of the print. Hence, I took a detailed shot of the most significant part of the piece.

The industry standard is Adobe Creative Suite (Photoshop, Indesign, Illustrator), but it is expensive. You can get it legally for $$/month on Abobe's website or illegally pirate copies. Note that pirated software loses functionality compared to the full version - you may hit features that don't work right. So I think it's advantageous to learn Adobe to start, regardless of acquisition.

TIP / NOTE: pirated Photoshop might not handle RAW files. Convert the files to DNG using the Adobe Digital Negative Converter.

Free Software Available I know:

• Check out the video for further information.

• GIMP - somewhat comparable to Photoshop, but free. Here's a comparison to Photoshop for functionality. Do not recommend if you're printing out your work since it is not CMYK compatible.

• Paint.NET - has a similar feel to old Microsoft Paint but with extended features like transparent backgrounds and adjustment features.

• Pixlr - free editing software. I don't know much about it.

• Adobe Creative Suite CS2 - While technically available entirely for free on their website, it's terribly out of date, and likely any of these free options will be better than it.

1. Undo Multiple Steps

• In Photoshop, Ctrl + Z only undoes the one last action taken. If you press it over and over again, it won't go back any further.

• Ctrl + Shift + Z undoes the last action taken, forever. So you can keep pressing it as far as the history has remembered your actions.

2. Levels

• This tool is the first thing you should touch if you're just starting out.

• I usually only touch the top 3 slider inputs attached to the image histogram.

• Adjusts the dark, mid and light tones following the position of the middle tone.

• It has an auto adjustment feature. This works well for sculptural products, less for flat images.

3. Selective Colour

• Allows me to blow out the white on the background with minimal comprise to line quality (unlike Levels).

• To blow out the whites, go to "White" and remove most "Black" on the slider. You may also need to adjust the "Neutral" slider to get all the white.

• Editing the "Neutral" sliders allows me to adjust middle colour tones selectively (unlike levels). I could make just red darker instead of the whole image.

• Allows me to edit other colours more selectively than with levels.

• Can fix 'photo temperature' problems (ex. white is too yellow).

4. Image Bending / Manipulation

• Alongside "Ruler" guides, I use Free Transform to make sure my images are 'flat' on the screen.

• Used to correct crooked or warped art on screen.

5. Layer Masks

• A way to blend adjustments selectively on your image.

• Using a layer mask allows for non-destructive editing of a layer.

• Use the keyboard shortcut "X" to switch between your foreground and background colour quickly. Set Black (foreground) and White (Background).

• Example: A photo with uneven lighting. I want a darker area to become brighter.

• I can make an overall "Levels" adjustment and then remove that level adjustment on the already bright area. The once dark area now matches and blends into the light area.

A more detailed video on Layer Masks can be found here by PHLEARN - how it can be used on groups or combined with other Photoshop features like a gradient.

6. Layer Opacity

• Allows me to lighten an adjustment without changing the adjustment settings.

• Returning to the previous example:
  My old dark area is now too light, but it just needs to be a tad darker. I set the layer opacity to 80%, and it works perfectly.

Seeing it all in Action

Learning these Photoshop tools will help you do a lot in the presentation of your art. In addition, will save you money. And, if you're looking to work in small arts organizations, you will inevitably have to use these tools for online promotion, posters, and other things.

But let's get back to you. How could Photoshop be utilized for your art?

If you want to sell clothing:

• You can make clothing mock-ups for digital pre-orders and test your design's appeal on social media.

• This avoids investing money into printing a product that might not sell.

• Put your most popular design up for pre-order.

• Hype & sell your pre-orders.

• When the 'buy' period is done, you'll have a minimum order to go to your print supplier. Or, if you print your clothes, you can buy your raw material in bulk accordingly. The bigger the order, the less it will cost per unit and the more money you'll make.

• Order samples and adjust the colour pallet with the supplier until it matches your real-life artwork. In a DIY setup, test around until you get it right.

• When ready, ask the printer to fulfill your complete pre-order/do it yourself.

• Deliver your finished product to your fans.

• You're happy because you saved money and made a thing.

• Your fans are happy because they walk away with a unique item that supports you.

In this whole process, you have mitigated the cost to yourself while also getting to make something of value to yourself and others. While there is pressure to deliver a good product, unlike EA Games, you will be able to do it! I believe in your ability to make it happen - if EA can deliver a sub par product on millions of dollars, then the cost has nothing to do with quality. You can make a good product that fulfills or exceeds expectations on the smaller budget you have! I believe in you. No this isn't about documentation - but good documentation of your artwork will let you do this sort of thing.

Zoom In/Out is one feature Google Sites does not have built in. However, using embedded Google Drive links, we can make the closest possible thing. The next part of the guide features how to create this function alongside its benefits and drawbacks.